Here's how the rad looks from the front now, with the fan behind it.

Here's the new fan in position behind the rad.

Here's how it looks with the nose and bonnet back on, and the mesh grille fitted.

Today I fixed a leak from the oil pressure sensor location using some good old PTFE tape, and finally replaced the nosecone and bonnet. I then remembered how dissapointed I am with the fit of the bonnet.

I'll have a look at the brake light wiring tomorrow.

yesterday I installed the new cooling fan, this time behind the radiator to maximise airflow to the font to improve cooling. This meant I had to fabricate new top brackets for the rad to move it forwards, this time I made them from aluminium and they look really good.

I've rewired the fan switch circuit, correctly this time, but it still doesn't seem to want to work. I might add in a manual switch for it.

I also secured the connections for the brake light switch, and when testing it the fuse blew, not sure what I've done there...

fixed the indicators, found a couple of butt crimp connectors had let go in the loom where I had slightly stretched it in order to bind it to tidy it up a bit. I re-made the connections and it's all working properly again.

plan to get lots more done tomorrow.

Ok I've completed the oil and filter change, and have been going over the car in preparations for the track day.

I found the cooling fan wasn't operating, and traced the fault to a broken wire in the loom, and repaired it. However, I found that in operation, the wiring got very hot, I'm guessing that this is because the old BMW fan is a little stuck, so I've ordered a new fan.

I also found that the left indicator isn't working, I'm not sure why yet, but I'm hoping it's not the relay, as a replacement may be quite expensive.

I still need to find a permanent fix for the brake light switch, and sort the loose bonnet out.

Ok, I finally got the cooling system to flow properly - and it was a very old school method of doing it. As the thermostat wasn't opening early enough, I drilled 2 4mm holes in it to allow water to flow through it at a reduced rate before it opens by itself.

I was busy all weekend so didn't get any time on it, but have tomorrow off, when i will change the oil and filter, and re-assemble the completed nosecone onto it.

I also want to sort out the loose fitting bonnet and charge the battery, and then it should be good to go.

It's only 3 1/2 weeks to go now before it makes it's track debut at Llandow!

Ok, re plumbed the rear water rail to re-establish flow through the redundant heater circuit. Not pretty (14 jubilee clips!) but it works.

I'm getting some really good advice on this from the guys over on the haynes forum. Looks like i have prevented the water flowing round the system properly by blocking off the redundant heater circuit. So I basically need to re-arrange the the hoses on the rear water rail to resore water flow. I'll try and get this done over the next few days, I may have to order some new parts (pipe connectors etc)

here's a slightly better one, with some parts dleted which were not applicable to the donor.

Ok here's a few drawings that may help:

Got a bit done today, fitted the aecond of the 2 extra silencers, and the exhausts now sound much quieter. In fact, it sounds great, really very happy with that. Also fitted the new water pump and thermostat. Ran it up, and after 15 mins of running - IT BOILED UP AGAIN!!!! Really fed up of it today. spent over £100 on new parts and it's just no different at all. It MUST be airlocked, there is no other explanation. I thought I had got all the air out via the top hose at the pump end. Have a look at the pictures below and see if you can see where the air is trapped and how to get it out. Comment if you have any ideas please. 1. Water pump removed 2. New pump and stat assembly bolted on - with original pulley. 3. Pipes and drive belt fitted - the theromostat is located in the plastic housing on the left pipe, this goes to the radiator bottom outlet. 4. a wider view, you can see the header tank behind the engine, on the bulkhead. 5. profile view of the back end of the engine, showing the header tank and it's hose to the rear water rail.

Here's the rear tonneau all made and fitted: And here's the first exhaust modified with an additional silencer.

I fitted a new thermostat to the engine and ran it up, and the engine boiled up again. Not happy. So I removed the water pump and ordered a new one, but found nothing wrong with the old one. There must simply be an airlock somewhere in the system. Still, not happy at the moment.